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BUYER'S PICKS — VOL.01

5 of the Most Beautiful Vintage Dress Watches

Precisely because we are the sellers, there are things we usually don't say—both the good and the bad. The ANTE owner gives an honest assessment.
5件選択されました The 5 items I selected this time
01
カルティエ サントスドゥモンLM エキストラフラット ギョーシェ文字盤 ref.96054
Cartier
Santos-Dumont Extra-Flat
★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
02
1960年代 タンクルイLM 手巻き スイス本国正規修理済み コンディション良
Cartier
Tank Louis 1960s
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
03
Franck Muller Limited Ref. 2851S6LTD White Gold Manual-Wind No. 1 of 25
FRANCK MULLER
2851S6 Limited
★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
04
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Manual-Wind 18K Rose Gold Bracelet Ref. 250.2.86 – Seldom-Seen Bracelet Model
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Reverso Ref. 250.2.86
★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
05
Corum Rolls-Royce Model, Rare, Cal. 21, Ref. 5559665
CORUM
Rolls-Royce
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
01 Cartier

Santos-Dumont Extra-Flat

カルティエ サントスドゥモンLM エキストラフラット ギョーシェ文字盤 ref.96054
Design ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Rarity ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Cost-effectiveness ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆
Ease of use ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆
Owner Rating ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

Value for money is 2 stars. Still, it’s a great watch.

Benefits

The greatest appeal lies in its overwhelming thinness and proportions. It is not merely thin; while retaining the iconic Santos design, it is exquisitely balanced as a dress watch. Another captivating aspect is the delicacy unique to vintage timepieces, a quality rarely found in modern watches.

Disadvantage

Due to its slim design, it is susceptible to impact. Furthermore, as the movement uses parts that are difficult to source, please handle it with great care.

Why was this purchased?

Above all, the balance between its slimness and design is perfectly beautiful. The case, the dial, the bezel, and the way it looks on the wrist—the balance of it all is exquisite. Personally, I consider it to be among the top two most beautiful pieces from Cartier.

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If you consider only price and usability, there are more rational choices. However, for the thinness, the balance, and the sheer beauty—this is a watch I want anyone who appreciates design, not just functionality, to see for themselves.
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02 Cartier

Tank Louis 1960s

1960年代 タンクルイLM 手巻き スイス本国正規修理済み コンディション良
Design ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Rarity ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Cost-effectiveness ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆
Ease of use ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Owner Rating ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

The rarity is 5 stars. But perhaps only the owner knows its true value.

Benefits

Above all, it is unconventional. While you enjoy the perfected design of the Tank Louis, there is a history of Cartier watchmaking behind it that is not widely known to the public. Unlike typical limited-edition models, this is a timepiece that becomes more intriguing the more you learn about it.

Disadvantage

It is so rare that almost no one notices. Even if you are wearing it on your wrist, it just looks like a regular vintage Tank Louis. It is also not easy to explain exactly why it is so unusual.

Why was this purchased?

"There is a Tank Louis that is far from ordinary." And, it might not be available again. That is the biggest reason. While there are other rare watches you can eventually find again, I felt that with this one, "If I miss this chance, I don't know when I'll ever come across it again."

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It is not a rare watch that is obvious to everyone at a glance. It is not the kind of "rare" meant for showing off, but rather the kind that brings pleasure simply through one's own awareness of it. Above all, there is no guarantee that I will ever encounter another piece in the same condition. Personally, that is what I find incredibly compelling about this watch.
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03 FRANCK MULLER

2851S6 Limited

Franck Muller Limited Ref. 2851S6LTD White Gold Manual-Wind No. 1 of 25
Design ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Rarity ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Cost-effectiveness ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Ease of use ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Owner Rating ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

The value for money is five stars. Forget the brand name for a moment and look at this watch purely for what it is.

Benefits

This watch offers a very different impression from what many people currently associate with Franck Muller. With its beautiful guilloché dial and hands, it is elegant and striking without being overly flashy. Including its white gold case and manual-wound movement, I believe this is a watch with exceptional value for money, even among these five pieces.

Disadvantage

The biggest drawback may not be the watch itself, but the image of the "Franck Muller" brand. Its reputation for flashy timepieces often precedes it, making it difficult for people to appreciate the classic design of its earlier works, which is the weakness of this watch.

Why was this purchased?

I was drawn to the fact that I could own a watch with these specifications at this price point. It features a classic design based on the original 2851S6, a white gold case, manual winding, and is limited to 25 pieces. Furthermore, this specific piece is 01/25. With all these conditions met, the price remains realistic.

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White gold case, manual wind, classic guilloché dial, a limited edition of 25 pieces, and numbered 01/25. When looking for a watch with all these criteria in the same price range, there aren't many options. I want those who think "Franck Muller is not my cup of tea" to see this at least once. It might just change your impression of the brand.
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04 JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Reverso Ref. 250.2.86

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Manual-Wind 18K Rose Gold Bracelet Ref. 250.2.86 – Seldom-Seen Bracelet Model
Design ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Rarity ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Cost-effectiveness ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Ease of use ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆
Owner Rating ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

Even at over 3 million yen, it's a 4-star value for money.

Benefits

A solid gold bracelet and a hand-wound movement. Honestly, for these specifications, the price is quite a bargain. Furthermore, by switching to a leather strap, you can transform it from a bold, solid gold timepiece into a sophisticated, formal dress watch.

Disadvantage

Since it is a solid gold bracelet, I honestly have to be very careful with it. It is not suitable for those who want to use it every day without worrying about scratches at all. Also, the weight characteristic of a solid gold bracelet may feel heavy to some people. For these reasons, I give it two stars for ease of use.

Why was this purchased?

First of all, the design of this bracelet is stunning. The combination of a solid rose gold bracelet with a black dial is quite different from your typical Reverso. "It's not your ordinary Reverso"—that was the main reason I decided to acquire this watch.

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I don't judge value for money based solely on a low price tag. Between the solid pink gold bracelet, the manual-winding movement, the black dial, and the unconventional Reverso design, this price is incredibly attractive when you consider the difficulty of finding those same conditions again. Above all, the combination of the black dial and the pink gold bracelet is stunning. For those looking for a dress watch with a bit of playfulness, this is a very interesting piece.
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05 CORUM

Rolls-Royce

Corum Rolls-Royce Model, Rare, Cal. 21, Ref. 5559665
Design ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Rarity ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Cost-effectiveness ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆
Ease of use ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆
Owner Rating ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Usability is 1 star. Still, I personally give it 5 stars.

Benefits

The design is simply magnificent. The intricate detailing of the engraving is stunning, and the diamonds display a brilliant sparkle. Furthermore, housed within this distinctive exterior is the Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21. The fact that this watch is more than just a beautiful facade is what makes this model so intriguing.

Disadvantage

Honestly, I don't think it's very well-suited for daily use. It has such a unique character that it's not easy to pair with outfits. If you're looking for a watch to wear every day or just one to own, there are much more practical options. Personally, I find it to be the kind of watch you'd rather just enjoy by looking at it at home.

Why was this purchased?

Because it is beautiful. The engraving on the case, the brilliance of the diamonds, and the ingenious design inspired by Rolls-Royce. It makes me realize that when you elevate a watch from a mere "tool for checking the time" to a work of art, this is what it becomes.

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It’s not easy to use. It’s hard to match. And it certainly isn’t what you’d call a good value for the money. Even so, “I want it because it’s beautiful.” I think that’s a perfectly valid way to choose a watch. With its engraving, diamonds, case design, and the Cal. 21 movement—it may be irrational as a practical tool, but if you view a watch as a work of art, there are few pieces as fascinating as this one.
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オーナーの結論

A beautiful watch and an easy-to-use watch are not necessarily the same thing.

Each of the five watches I selected this time has its own flaws. Some are difficult to use, and others are hard to justify based on price alone. Yet, a watch that you still desire after understanding its shortcomings possesses a charm that specs alone cannot explain. At ANTE, we choose watches not just because they are rare, but because we have seen them, touched them, and decided that they are truly worth stocking.
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