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When looking for a vintage Cartier,
“Original dial”
“Genuine replacement dial”
“Redial (dial restoration)”
You may come across the term
However, it is by no means easy to correctly understand the differences between them.
The dial is one of the most important points to consider when assessing the condition and originality of a vintage Cartier.
This time, we will explain the differences between original dials, genuine replacement dials, and redials, as well as why Ante values original dials.
What is an original vintage Cartier dial?
When looking at a vintage Cartier, it is important to first check whether the dial is the one the watch had from that era.
A dial that was shipped with the watch at the time and has remained in place.
This is what we call an “original dial.”
On the other hand, some watches have had their dials replaced by Cartier authorized service over the years.
This is what is meant by a “genuine replacement dial.”
A genuine replacement dial is also a genuine Cartier part; this does not mean that its quality is inferior.
Depending on the year of manufacture, the paints and production methods may have changed, and some dials are less prone to discoloration and cracking.
If you prioritize practicality, a genuine replacement dial is one option.
On the other hand, the printing style, color, and typeface may differ from those of a dial from that period.
Therefore, if you value the watch's period appearance and originality, an original dial has an appeal different from that of a replacement dial.
It is not a matter of one being better or worse.
Or practicality.
Whether you prioritize the originality preserved from that era.
At Ante, we believe it is important to understand the differences and choose a timepiece that matches your own values. 「For more on what we truly consider important when choosing a vintage Cartier,」 But we explain it in detail as well.
What matters more than price: criteria for choosing a vintage Cartier
A “PARIS dial” alone does not prove that it is original.
- Vintage Cartier dials may feature
- SWISS
- SWISS MADE
and other various markings can be found.
For this reason, some people assume that a “PARIS” marking means the dial is original.
However, the originality of a dial cannot be determined from its markings alone.
There are also models that were manufactured with “SWISS” markings from the outset.
In addition, some watches have had their dials replaced through authorized service over the years, resulting in changes to their markings and specifications.
Cartier, with a history spanning more than 100 years, has various specifications depending on the period and model.
That is why, when examining a dial, you should not judge it based on just one characteristic;
Age.
Model.
The printing of the lettering and logo.
Color and finish.
And the consistency with the watch as a whole.
It is important to assess all of these factors together.
Signs of aging found on vintage Cartier dials
On vintage Cartier watches that have existed for many decades, the dial may show discoloration or small cracks.
Some people may regard this as a defect.
However, we do not necessarily see it that way.
After checking the condition of the entire watch, including the case and movement, we consider natural aging visible on the dial to be part of the time that watch has lived through.
The paints and production methods used at the time, as well as the conditions in which the watch was stored, mean that no two have exactly the same character.
One of the appeals of vintage watches is that they retain an individual character not found in new watches.
That is why Ante generally does not alter the dials.
That is because we believe the history and patina unique to that watch are also important parts of its value.
What is a redial (dial restoration)? The difference from an original dial
“Redial” refers to the restoration process of reworking the paint, lettering, logo, indices, and other elements on a dial that has deteriorated with age.
Redialing can sometimes make a dial look more beautiful.
On the other hand, the character and printing of the dial itself, preserved from that era, will change.
Therefore, in the world of vintage watches, where originality is important, it is essential to distinguish between original and redialed dials.
In recent years, some dials have been finished with remarkable precision, making them difficult to judge from photographs alone.
That is why Ante checks the consistency of the entire watch, including its age, model, printing, case, and movement, rather than looking only at the dial.
At Ante, because we value originality, we do not carry products with redialed dials.
What we value is not making a watch look new, but preserving as much as possible into the future the form it has retained over many years.
Why Ante values original vintage Cartier dials
We believe that restoring a vintage watch to a new condition should not be the only goal.
It means carrying the watch into the future while respecting its history and individuality.
That is also important when dealing with vintage watches.
The dial is, in a sense, the “face” of the watch.
The original character preserved over many decades has an appeal that cannot be expressed by a newly recreated dial.
For more on what we consider to be “truly good condition,” 「What does “truly good condition” mean for a vintage watch?」 But we explain it in detail as well.
That is why Ante generally does not alter the dials or hands.
More important than making it look beautifully restored is respecting the time that the watch has lived through.
That is why Ante places such importance on original vintage Cartier dials.
What matters when looking at a vintage Cartier dial
An original dial is not necessarily the best choice for everyone.
Genuine replacement dials also have the appeal of practicality.
What matters is understanding these differences and knowing what you value when choosing a watch.
If originality is important to you, do not judge it based solely on the markings; check the watch's age, model, dial, case, and movement as well.
It is important to view a vintage watch as a complete timepiece, not just as a collection of individual parts.
At Ante, we aim to introduce timepieces that can be passed on to the next generation while respecting, as much as possible, the history they have lived through.




