― Not one watch, but one collection ―
When people hear “Santos,” many may picture a single watch.
In reality, however, Santos is not a single model.
Since its creation in 1904, it has been one of Cartier’s signature collections, passed down for more than 120 years.
Santos-Dumont.
Santos Galbée (Carrée).
Santos Octagon.
Their names and designs differ, but all are models created within the single “Santos” collection.
Santos has been passed down through the Eras
The history of Santos began in 1904, with the wristwatch Louis Cartier made for Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Over the following 120-plus years, lifestyles and the roles expected of watches changed significantly.
An Era when slim dress watches were favored.
An Era when practicality for everyday wear was prioritized.
An Era when the idea of sports luxury was gaining popularity.
Santos, too, gradually changed as it incorporated the values of each Era.
Why the Galbée (Carrée) was created
From the late 1970s through the 1980s, watches were expected to offer greater practicality than ever before.
As bracelet models grew more popular, the value of a watch that could be worn with confidence in everyday life also became increasingly important.
The Santos Galbée (Carrée) emerged amid these changing times.
The case adopted a one-piece construction and was redesigned with water resistance in mind.
The bracelet was integrated more seamlessly, and the Santos evolved into a watch better suited to everyday wear.
However, Cartier was not pursuing practicality alone.
A square case.
Roman numerals.
A bezel with visible screws.
By incorporating the screw design into the bracelet as well, Cartier created a Santos for a new Era without compromising its distinctive character.
It improved functionality without sacrificing elegance.
That may be one of the reasons Santos Galbée (Carrée) remains highly regarded today.
About the names “Carrée” and “Galbée”
When researching vintage Santos watches, you may encounter the names “Santos Carrée” and “Santos Galbée.”
Although it is now widely used, the distinction is not always clear.
Expressions may vary depending on the Era and reference materials, and early models are sometimes called “Carrée” in the market. At the same time, “Galbée” is also used in a broader sense in some contexts.
Early bracelets may also be introduced under the name “Godron bracelet.”
In the world of vintage Santos watches, it is therefore not easy to organize everything by name alone.
That is why we believe it is important to look beyond model names and examine the Era, specifications, and design characteristics.
What is the Santos series?
We believe the Santos series is not “one watch,” but “a collection built around one perfected design that has been passed down for more than 120 years.”
Others have remained unchanged.
Some things have changed over time.
By understanding both, you can see the individuality of each Santos and why it was created in its particular Era.
Going forward, Cartier Knowledge will introduce each model individually, including the Santos-Dumont, Santos Galbée (Carrée), and Santos Octagon.
Learning about the Santos series is not simply about memorizing model names.
It is also about understanding how Cartier has carried one design forward for more than 120 years while developing it to suit each Era.
Learn more about vintage Santos watches
If you are looking for an actual vintage Santos, you can browse the Santos collection we currently have available.
View vintage Cartier Santos watches →
For choosing a Santos Galbée size, we compare the Case Size, bracelet width, thickness, and wearing experience of the Small and LM using actual watches.
Compare the sizes of the Cartier Santos Galbée Small and LM →
Point
- Santos is not a single model, but one of Cartier’s signature collections, spanning more than 120 years.
- While incorporating practicality and wearing comfort over time, the Santos design codes have been passed down.
- Names such as “Carrée,” “Galbée,” and “Godron bracelet” may be used differently depending on the market or reference materials.
- To understand vintage Santos watches, it is important to look not only at the names but also at their Era, specifications, and design changes.
