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Article: Cartier Knowledge | Isn't Cartier a watchmaker?

Cartier Knowledge|カルティエは時計メーカーではないのか。

Cartier Knowledge | Isn't Cartier a watchmaker?

― What the word "Maison" teaches us ―

Is Cartier a watchmaker?

Many people would answer "Yes, it is a watchmaker" to this question.

And that is not wrong.

Cartier has created numerous masterpieces that have left their mark on watchmaking history, such as the Santos, Tank, and Panthère, and now uses many in-house movements.

However, as you delve deeper into Cartier, it becomes clear that it is a brand that cannot be described solely as a "watchmaker."

The reason lies in the order in which Cartier approaches watchmaking.


Cartier began as a jeweler

Cartier, founded in 1847, was not originally a watchmaker.

It began its history as a "maison" producing jewelry, creating numerous works for customers around the world, including royalty and nobility.

Later, it also began to work on watchmaking, but its approach is a little different from that of general watchmakers.


Cartier first envisioned the completed form of the watch

Many watchmakers create watches while valuing mechanical performance, such as movements, durability, and accuracy.

Cartier, on the other hand, first considered "what kind of watch do I want to create?" and then selected the optimal technology to achieve that vision.

Santos.

Tank.

Panthère.

Baignoire.

In every collection, the shape of the case itself is its individuality.

Cartier has not only designed watches as machines but has also valued completing them as works of art, including the thickness of the case, its proportions, and how it looks on the wrist.


We have chosen the optimal technology for each watch

Therefore, at Cartier, "which movement to adopt" was not the starting point of watchmaking.

First, they considered "what kind of watch do I want to create?"

Once that answer was decided, the technology and movements to achieve it were selected.

Cartier was not particular about completing everything in-house.

In order to achieve the most suitable technology for each watch, they actively incorporated the technology of specialized manufacturers as needed.

The fact that various movements from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and others are used in vintage Cartiers is a testament to this philosophy.

A thin movement for an ultra-thin dress watch.

A practical movement for models that emphasize daily use.

A suitable structure for sporty models.

What was important was not that it was in-house.

It was to achieve the most complete combination for that watch.


The current choice: in-house movements

Cartier is currently actively adopting in-house movements.

This does not mean that the past philosophy has been rejected.

It can be seen that the environment has been established to realize the design and watchmaking philosophy cultivated over many years through its own technology.

Times change, and technology changes.

However, Cartier's philosophy of valuing the completeness of the entire watch does not seem to have changed much.


The reason it's called a "Maison"

When discussing Cartier, the word "Maison" is often used.

This is because it is not just a brand that makes watches, but a brand that has built a unique worldview through various crafts, including jewelry.

Watches are also an important part of this worldview.

Therefore, at Cartier, a watch has been considered as a whole, including not only the movement but also the case shape, dial, bracelet, and even the proportions when worn on the wrist.


Is Cartier not a watchmaker?

We do not think that "Cartier is not a watchmaker."

Cartier is undoubtedly an excellent watchmaker.

However, the starting point of its watchmaking is a little different from that of general watchmakers.

First, consider what kind of watch you want to make.

Then, choose the optimal technology to realize that ideal.

This philosophy is unique to Cartier, cultivated as a jeweler since its founding.

Before being a brand that makes watches, Cartier was a maison that created beautiful things.

That philosophy is still inherited in watchmaking today, more than 170 years later.

That is why Cartier is called not just a "watchmaker" but a "Maison."


Point

  • Cartier is a maison founded in 1847 as a jeweler.
  • Cartier's watchmaking is characterized by a philosophy that starts with the completed form: "what kind of watch do I want to create?"
  • Cartier has pursued the optimal configuration for each watch, incorporating the technology of specialized manufacturers as needed.
  • While now using in-house movements, the philosophy of "emphasizing the overall completeness of the watch" remains consistent.
  • Cartier is an excellent watchmaker and also a "Maison" that inherits design and culture.

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Cartier Knowledge|マストタンクとは何か。

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Cartier Knowledge|マストタンクとは何か。

Cartier Knowledge | What is the Must Tank?

― A collection that brought the world of Cartier to more people ―The "Must Tank" is one of the representative collections of vintage Cartier.Today, it is often chosen as an entry point to vintage C...

Read more