Cartier Knowledge | What is the Santos de Cartier Collection?
― Not a Single Watch, but a Collection ―
When you hear "Santos," many people might picture a single watch.
However, in reality, Santos is not just one model.
Since its birth in 1904, it has been a flagship Cartier collection, passed down for over 120 years.
Santos-Dumont.
Santos Galbée (Carrée).
Santos Octagon.
While their names and designs differ, they are all models born within the single "Santos" collection.
Santos has Evolved with the Times
The history of Santos began in 1904, when Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for Alberto Santos-Dumont.
In the more than 120 years since then, lifestyles and the role demanded of watches have changed significantly.
An era where thin dress watches were favored.
An era where practicality for daily use was emphasized.
An era where the value of sports luxury became widespread.
Santos, too, has gradually changed its appearance, incorporating the values of each era.
The Reason for the Birth of the Galbée (Carrée)
From the late 1970s to the 1980s, wristwatches were expected to be more practical than ever before.
The popularity of bracelet models grew, and the value of a wristwatch that could be used safely in daily life became important.
It was in this trend that the Santos Galbée (Carrée) emerged.
The case became a monobloc structure, and the design was changed to consider water resistance.
The integration with the bracelet was also enhanced, evolving into a Santos that was easier for daily use.
However, Cartier did not pursue only practicality.
Square case.
Roman numerals.
Bezel with exposed screws.
And, by incorporating the screw design into the bracelet, a new era of Santos was completed without losing the distinctive Santos character.
Enhancing functionality while maintaining elegance.
This is surely one of the reasons why the Santos Galbée (Carrée) is still highly regarded today.
Regarding the terms "Carrée" and "Galbée"
When researching vintage Santos watches, you may come across the names "Santos Carrée" and "Santos Galbée."
While these are widely used terms today, their distinctions are not always clear.
Expressions may vary depending on the era and source material, and in the market, early models are sometimes referred to as "Carrée." On the other hand, the name "Galbée" is also used in a broader sense.
Additionally, early bracelets are sometimes referred to as "godron bracelets."
Thus, in the world of vintage Santos, it is not easy to categorize everything simply by name.
That is why we believe it is important to look not only at the model name but also at the era, specifications, and design features.
What is the Santos series?
We believe that the Santos series is not "a single watch" but "a collection where a complete design has been passed down for over 120 years."
Some things have remained unchanged.
And some things have changed with the times.
By understanding both, we can see the individuality of each Santos and the reasons why it was created in its respective era.
Going forward, Cartier Knowledge will introduce each model, such as the Santos-Dumont, Santos Galbée (Carrée), and Santos Octagon, one by one.
Understanding the Santos series is not about memorizing model names.
It is also about understanding how Cartier has maintained a single design for over 120 years and developed it to suit the times.
Point
- Santos is not a single model, but a flagship Cartier collection that has continued for over 120 years.
- While incorporating practicality and wearability with the times, the distinctive Santos design codes have been preserved.
- Terms like "Carrée," "Galbée," and "godron bracelet" may be used differently depending on the market and source materials.
- To understand vintage Santos, it is important to look at the changes in era, specifications, and design in conjunction with the nomenclature.
