Even when they are the same model, vintage watches differ in condition from one individual piece to another.
The condition of the case.
The character of the dial.
The movement.
And what kind of years that watch has lived through.
Only after checking all of these aspects comprehensively can we understand the true condition of that particular watch.
That is why we believe that not only “which watches we sell,” but also “who prepares them for sale” is an important factor that affects quality.
The same person sees a watch through to the end
For some time, I have admired what Hermès values:
“One artisan takes responsibility for a single product from beginning to end”
We have resonated with this approach to craftsmanship.
Of course, the processes differ between watches and leather goods.
However, we feel that the idea that “the person who first becomes involved takes responsibility through to the end” also applies to vintage watches.
At Ante, we incorporate this philosophy in our own way.
The person who sourced it sees it through the entire preparation process
At Ante, the person who sources a watch remains consistently involved with it through the entire process of preparing it for sale.
Each watch we source is inspected not only externally but also down to the movement and inside of the case.
By checking the condition of the interior,
How the watch has been used.
What kind of maintenance it has received.
And which parts should be preserved and which should be worked on.
We determine what treatment that particular watch requires.
Actual maintenance and repairs are carried out in collaboration with our craftsmen according to the watch’s condition, after which we inspect the finished watch again.
For the case and bracelet as well, rather than making unnecessary alterations, we prioritize preserving as much as possible the form and character the watch originally possessed.
Ultimately, the person who sourced the watch takes responsibility for determining whether it is ready to be presented as a product.
As a rule, we do not alter the dial or hands.
Because we believe that the value of a vintage watch also lies in the original character it has retained over many years.
We also explain in detail why we value originality in “What Is an Original Dial?.”
A watch cannot be judged by its exterior alone
With vintage watches, you cannot determine their true condition from their appearance alone.
Some watches have a beautiful case but problems inside.
Conversely, some watches retain natural signs of aging while clearly showing that they have been carefully cared for.
That is why we check not only the exterior but also the condition of the interior.
A watch always has a story that must add up.
The condition of the case.
The condition of the dial and hands.
And the condition of the movement and inside of the case.
By checking each element and seeing whether it is consistent with the time the watch has experienced, we can gradually understand its true condition.
For more details on what we consider a “truly good vintage watch,” please see “What does “truly good condition” mean for a vintage watch?.”
There is quality that can be protected precisely because we are inefficient.
This method is by no means efficient.
Acquisition, condition assessment, maintenance decisions, inspection of the finished work, and the final decision to bring it to market.
We return to each watch again and again.
However, every vintage watch has a different condition.
That is why we believe having the person who first assessed the watch take responsibility for it through to the end helps protect Ante’s quality.
Even after reviewing approximately 10,000 watches each month, we actually acquire only around a dozen.
We carefully re-examine the watches we acquire, and only a portion of them can ultimately be presented as products.
Even so, we never change those standards.
For more details on why Ante offers so few products, please see “Why does Ante bring only around 10 watches to market even after viewing approximately 10,000 vintage watches every month?.”
Ante's Philosophy
The quality of a vintage watch is not determined by the watch alone.
Who selected the watch, who assessed its condition, what decisions were made about any work performed, and who ultimately sends it out as a product.
We believe that the accumulation of each individual decision leads to the final quality.
Take full responsibility for every watch we acquire, through to the end.
That is the philosophy Ante values when bringing vintage watches to market.
For more details on the standards Ante uses to bring watches to market, please see “Thinking beyond the point of sale. That is Ante’s quality standard..”
