Cartier watches aren't chosen for their movements.

When researching vintage Cartier watches, you might come across statements like:

"ETA movements are excellent."
"They're more valuable because they use Jaeger-LeCoultre movements."
"Piaget movements are rare."

Of course, each movement has its own characteristics, which are intriguing to watch enthusiasts.

However, we have a slightly different perspective.

Cartier is not a brand that prioritizes the movement itself.

It's a brand that has always chosen the most suitable movement for its time to create beautiful designs, excellent wearability, and watches that complement a lifestyle.

Cartier's watchmaking evolves with the times

Today, Cartier primarily uses in-house movements for many of its models.

In contrast, during the era when vintage Cartier watches were made, movements from various manufacturers such as ETA, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Peseux, and EWC were utilized.

This isn't a matter of one being superior to the other.

It reflects the differing philosophies of watchmaking throughout different eras.

At that time, Cartier didn't insist on using only in-house movements but prioritized selecting the most suitable movement for each particular watch.

The movements Cartier chose

Some watch brands place the value of their brand primarily on the movement itself.

However, what Cartier has always valued is the overall perfection of the watch.

The beauty of the case, the feel on the wrist, and the overall aesthetic the watch conveys.

The movement is an important element in achieving all of this, but it is not the main focus.

For example, to achieve a thin case that naturally slips under a suit cuff, ultra-thin movements from Frédéric Piguet, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre were used.

On the other hand, many vintage Cartier watches use ETA (Cal. 78 series) movements. While some models feature Peseux movements, ETA is the primary choice.

The ETA (Cal. 78 series) is known for its durability and stability, with a proven track record of long-term use and easy maintenance even today. This is why Cartier used it in many models intended for daily wear.

For sportier models like the Santos, the thickness of the automatic movement harmonizes with the case design, creating a powerful presence. Conversely, if a more streamlined feel or lightness is desired, a quartz model is an option.

Thus, Cartier didn't design watches by thinking, "I want to use this movement." Instead, they started with the idea of "I want to create this kind of watch," and then chose the most suitable movement for it.

That's why you can't simply say an ETA movement is superior, or a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement makes a watch more valuable.

The movement is not the star of the watch; it exists to achieve beautiful design and comfortable wearability.

Choosing Cartier, not just the movement

We don't recommend choosing a watch based solely on its movement.

First, consider:

• What kind of outfits do you want to pair it with?
• On what occasions do you want to wear it?
• What kind of design appeals to you?

Once you have these answers, the right model will naturally become clear.

And that model will be equipped with the movement Cartier deemed optimal.

It's not about choosing Cartier because of the movement, but choosing Cartier and finding that the watch is equipped with the perfect movement for it.

I have been observing watches for over 20 years and my reasons for continuing to choose Cartier are explained in detail in "Why I continue to choose vintage Cartier".

We believe this philosophy is the true charm of vintage Cartier.

Contemporary Cartier vs. Vintage Cartier

Today, Cartier has evolved towards watchmaking centered on in-house movements.

On the other hand, vintage Cartier embodies a unique freedom of thought characteristic of its era.

Prioritizing design and choosing the most suitable movement for each watch.

The numerous masterpieces born from this philosophy continue to be cherished worldwide.

Contemporary Cartier has its own allure, and vintage Cartier offers a unique charm.

We believe that understanding Cartier's philosophy throughout each era and choosing a watch that fits your lifestyle is the best way to enjoy vintage Cartier.

* The ETA (Cal. 78 series) movement, widely used in vintage Cartier watches, has several variations depending on the era. We will explore their specific characteristics in future Owner's Cartier Guides.